It was a busy month since the car arrived. Unfortunately, I did not do a great job photographing the work.

My thanks to my fellow NJTA members for helping with the engine / trans removal, gearbox rebuild, and re-install: D. Hinson, D. Tiernan, G. kabler, and R Browne.

A few notes on the engine / Trans install for myself or anyone else in the future

• Remove the steering rack

• Attach the engine arrestor plate to the gearbox with it out of the car when the rest of the bellhousing is attached. Don't forget the spacers.

• Attach the starter with the motor out of the car. The lower screw is 3/8" UNF hex head 1" long, part #GHF105. The upper screw is 3/8" UNC 1.75" long, BH506141.Pay attention, the upper screw is special as it has a length of unthreaded shank that fits snug to hole in the starter motor and engine backplate. FWIW this screws into the bellhousing of the gearbox, hence the coarse thread.

• Install the mounts with unibody pin low onto the engine first. Thighten them down. Mark the top of the mount with whiteout so you don't get it flipped around.

• Get the engine / trans close to position and hang the tailshaft on the fixed crossmember

• Attach the crossmember to the trans but don't attach to the body. The butterfly is a PITA. A test fit out of the car is a good idea.

• New 3/8 Stainless Steel fine nylocs for the underside of the motor mounts. The square plate goes on with the hole toward the top. A lockwasher follows. Have a helper hold the plate and lockwasher on from above with a thin screwdriver while you try to get the nut started from below  (driver side). Passenger side I was able to do all three from above by myself

Check out the Initial Maintenance Photo Album.

 Dick Moritz says the image is wrong. Although, my disassembly photo of the cross member says it is correct. Dick says:

• Overdrive cars should use forward saddle and rear subframe holes

• Non-Overdrive cars should use rear saddle and forward subframe holes

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